Tutti Frutti Art Deco lapel clip in gold

Tutti Frutti Art Deco lapel clip in 18 karat yellow gold (750 thousandths) and platinum (900). Brooch in the shape of a crescent moon, decorated with flowers stylized by petals carved with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. The pistil is represented by 8/8-cut diamonds. This brooch features fourteen rubies, seventeen sapphires, nine emeralds and fourteen diamonds. Tutti Frutti Art Deco brooch, in the style of Tutti Frutti jewelry by Cartier Paris, circa 1925. Eagle head hallmark, dog head hallmark and illegible goldsmith's hallmark. Dimensions: 25 x 32 mm Estimated sapphire weight: 2.55 carats Estimated ruby weight: 2.10 carats Estimated emerald weight: 0.90 carats Estimated diamond weight: 0.28 carat Condition: scratches from use Weight: 8.69 gr About the Tutti Frutti style: In the mid-1920s, Cartier introduced a wonderfully imaginative and innovative jewelry style depicting numerous flowers and fruits interpreted in a profusion of colors and textures. These jewels were called "fruit salad" or "tutti frutti". This term, coined by Cartier, seemed a fitting choice to express the exuberant creativity far removed from the typical geometry of the Art Deco period. Cartier's tutti frutti style is characterized by a profusion of colors, textures and contrasts. The Indian influence that made Cartier such a success from 1925 onwards can be seen in the contribution of the talented Jeanne Toussaint. Soon after her arrival in 1907, Jeanne Toussaint became the "soul" of the jewelry department. She loved Indian jewelry and the Mughal style, and was greatly inspired by exotic carved gems and Indian cabochons. She was also influenced by Diaghilev's Russian ballets, with their exotic themes and dazzling use of color and movement. Both influences are evident in Cartier's tutti frutti pieces. Her vision and success with tutti frutti jewelry led to her becoming head of Cartier's jewelry department in 1933.